The first step was to re-solder the connection of the white wire here so that it is straight on instead of being at a 90 degree angle. The original, thicker tube is about 4mm longer than the PBG4 12" tube. Now this is where things get a bit questionable. The top is the thicker, original tube.ġ1. They both look bright in the photo, but the different was quite obvious in the flesh.ġ0. It's impossible to tell here, but the original is the one on the right and the replacement is on the left. So here I hook up the two CCFL tubes side by side after carefully removing them from their reflective channels. I did a bit of a "dry run" by dismantling the 'spares' iBook I mentioned earlier just to get an idea of what is involved. Lining them up I can see the original tube looks slightly thicker (maybe 2.5mm?) whereas the replacement is 2mm thick.ĩ. Here I have the original Clamshell CCFL tube above and the PBG4 12" tube below, both still in their reflective channels.Ĩ. The flash has drowned out the brightness of the tube here. Here I've connected the backlight tube directly to the inverter board and powered on the iBook to test the backlight is still working after being removed from the existing panel. 7 little PH000 screws from the rear and sides of the panel are removed to then gently lift and peel out the CCFL tube. The first thing was to remove the backlight from the donor LCD Panel. The PBG4 12" display was the winner in terms of backlight quality.Ħ. I actually tested 3 different cracked 12" panels which I had on hand (2 from iBook G4s and one from the PBG4 12"). I then connected the broken PowerBook G4 12" panel to the backlight inverter and can see the backlight come on fine when I power on the iBook. The display is so dim it's hardly visible (with the camera flash on).ĥ. Here I've connected the original LCD panel to the backlight inverter and powered it on. Here is the inner frame with the LCD panel completely removed.Ĥ. The panel then lifts forward and the inverter power connector and LVDS cables can be easily disconnected. Once the front bezel is removed, take out four PH1 screws holding the housing along the top and then the four screws holding the LCD panel in place. After removing the rear cover at the handle, also take the four PH1 screws holding the display rear in place.ģ. I started by taking a look on iFixit for a guide to remove the LCD and came across a simple guide for removing the front bezel. I pulled it out today to take a look, but had a change of heart and decided to instead salvage a CCFL tube from a cracked 12" PowerBook G4 display, which was otherwise destined for the trash. Over a year ago, I bought a backup "spares" Blueberry clamshell with the intention to eventually take the backlight out of it and install into my prize Blueberry. The backlight has been getting notably worse each time I boot it up. I decided to tackle the repair of my beautiful Blueberry Clamshell iBook which just keeps getting darker and darker as the years go by.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |